On the windswept shores of Phú Yên, as the sun rises over the horizon, gentle rays cast a golden glow upon the shimmering coral reefs beneath the crystal-clear waters of Hòn Yến. The deep blue ocean, infused with the salt-laden breeze, enfolds the island and its velvety white sands in a tender embrace. In the distance, round basket boats return from a night of fishing, carrying with them the heartbeats of the sea.
Emerged from the serene landscape sits Cô (Mrs.) Huỳnh Thị Kim On, on her porch, her hands deftly weaving fishing nets. Her face glows in the early sunlight, her warm smile ever-present as chatters with neighbors and passing tourists filled the air. Weaving nets is more than just her daily work – it's her life anchored in the traditions of her village.
Hòn Yến, where Cô On lives, is about 20 kilometers from Tuy Hoà of Phú Yên. Renowned for its coral reefs and abundant marine life, Hòn Yến has long been a haven for its fishers. The coral reefs, sprawling over 12.7 hectares and reaching 150 meters from the island to the mainland, provide shelter to a multitude of marine species, supporting the livelihoods of over 2,060 residents. However, these reefs are facing severe degradation due to the growing demands of tourism. Not only does it threaten the delicate balance of Hòn Yến's marine ecosystem, but it also jeopardizes the livelihoods of the fishing village.
Recognizing the urgency of balancing coral reef protection and ecotourism development, the Biodiversity Finance Initiative (BIOFIN), facilitated by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) in Viet Nam, partners with the Global Environment Facility’s Small Grant Programme (GEF SGP), the Women’s Unions of Phú Yên Province and An Hòa Hải commune to establish the Hòn Yến Service and Ecology Cooperative (Eco-Coop). The goal is to direct 15% of tourism revenue from Eco-Coop's organized activities toward coral conservation.
Before BIOFIN, Cô On was firmly rooted in the traditions of her ancestors, crafting nets and fishing with her husband. The idea of opening her home to strangers—of hosting tourists—felt entirely foreign.
People like us don’t do tourism
she would say, casting aside the project’s early attempts to involve her.
With the fishing profession and the belief that inviting many strangers into the house would bring bad luck when fishing offshore, she became resistant to change. Her small house, with its unfinished nets strewn across the floor, seemed ill-suited for such ambitions. Even though she had agreed to take part in the Eco-Coop’s advocacy and awareness campaigns, Cô On stayed firm in her decision to keep her doors closed to overnight guests. Her husband and son were equally disapproving.
Yet, with gentle encouragement from the Women’s Union and the Eco-Coop, Cô On began to attend training sessions, albeit reluctantly.
The fisher reads the waters, casting nets
It wasn’t a single moment that changed her mind, but rather a gradual shift, like the tides that reshape the coastline over time.
It started with the piloted tours by BIOFIN observed at various participating households. Whether it was seeing the joy on the faces of tourists or the growing confidence in the women running the tours, something in her began to change. Her hesitation gave way to curiosity. Not much later, she agreed to cook for visitors at her place, despite staying firm on her no overnight guest policy.
During the “Hon Yen Green Festival,” Cô On and her fellow women from the cooperative prepared a feast for 65 guests, including officials from across the province. With one hand ladling soup and softly counting under her breath, she and her team laid out nine intricate dishes, each a labor of love meticulously planned by her. Guests all leave satisfied, though some wish for a taste of more authentic local cuisine.
She candidly confided:
I spent over a week preparing the menu. I wanted to make simple dishes like “cá ngừ nấu mẳn” (braised tuna in fish sauce), “cháo cá cơm ngần” (liver fish porridge) but the other didn’t agree. And my husband said ‘You have to make fancier dishes, not the ones we eat all the time. If you make those, I’ll leave the house!’. So, I cooked the way he wanted.
After the meal for those 65 guests, Cô On brought “cá ngừ nấu mẳn” and “cháo cá cơm ngần” into her menu.
Letting the nets settled, the fisher waits
After six months of welcoming guests alongside the other women in the cooperative, Cô On’s journey took her further. Her fear gave way to a quiet confidence. BIOFIN supported her participation in a study tour to Hòa Bắc (Đà Nẵng) and Cẩm Kim (Quảng Nam), where she saw firsthand how simple village homes could be transformed into thriving homestays.
Visiting the home of Cô Xuân in Hòa Bắc, filled with friendly and generous guests, Cô On couldn't help but think of her own small, two-extra-empty room house on the edge of Hòn Yến Island, with its half-finished fishing nets scattered about.
In a quiet voice, she confided:
I still have empty rooms at home. My, can you help me set up a homestay? But my house is small, and there’s no air conditioning. Will the guests be okay with that? I’m ready to welcome them now, please help me!
She returned to Hòn Yến with a new vision, one that included welcoming guests not just for a meal but for a deeper, more meaningful experience. Working with experts from BIOFIN, Cô On began to design a space within her home that could accommodate more guests. She continued to attend Eco-Coop meetings and helped recruit 12 more women into the cooperative’s cooking team, all while being the first to eliminate the use of single-use plastics in the village’s tourism services.
Today, Cô On is no longer hesitant. She has emerged as one of the pioneers of community-based eco-tourism in Hòn Yến. She expanded her role beyond cooking, inviting visitors to experience net weaving, sharing stories of fishing with basket boats, and recounting tales of the coral reefs.
At first, I wasn’t used to cooking for so many people, and sometimes the flavors weren’t quite right,” she admitted. “But over time, I got the hang of it. Tourism is fun—I get to meet new people and learn so many new things.
She has welcomed over 700 visitors to her home from both Vietnam and abroad.
The fisher hauls the catch and guides the others
For a woman borne out of a fishing village, ecotourism seems like an impossible feat. Through her perseverance in overcoming personal and societal obstacles, and with the support of the Women’s Union, the Eco-Coop, and new perspectives gained from the BIOFIN project, Cô On stood among the first to lay the initial bricks, paving the way for sustainable ecotourism in Hòn Yến.
Her net weaving and her rustic culinary skills have sparked a new wave of tourism in Hòn Yến, centered around hands-on experiences and local cuisine. The women of the village, with 12 more of them inspired by the transformation of Cô On, once on the periphery, now stand at the center of this change, leading tours, cooking meals, and sharing their stories with the world.
When the village started receiving more tourists, homestays sprang up in Nhơn Hội,” she shared. “Families began offering cooking services, and the women had more work and income. Everyone was so excited.
Cô On’s transformation is not just her own. What began as a tentative step has grown into something larger—a collective effort to preserve Hòn Yến’s fragile ecosystem and generate income for the community.
From a small fishing village known only for net weaving and fishing, Hòn Yến has emerged as a destination for sustainable eco-tourism.
And at the heart of it all is the fisher who, like the nets she weaves, has learned to hold together the delicate threads of tradition and change.
Authors: Lê Thị Trà My, Michelle Đặng (Phương)
Photo credits: Đặng Thái Tài, BIOFIN Hòn Yến
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